Basic Bicycle Info

The information here is geared toward a novice cyclist, or for somebody who hasn't bought a bike in a little while.

The market has changed drastically just in the past decade. Most of the drop-handle road bikes have been replaced by mountain bikes and hybrids. I've included some sections describing the major bicycle types, plus some basic info on clothing and accessories.

Bicycle types

Though there are many more types and subtypes of bicycles than what is described here, the major types are mountain bikes, hybrids, road bikes, cruisers and city bikes; these are described below.

Mountain bikes

Mountain bikes are the most popular bikes these days. They have very sturdy frames, knobby tires, and multi-speed derailleurs (usually 27 speeds). They don't go really fast, but they're good all-purpose bikes, especially for people (like me) who like to beat the crap out of their bikes. They make good around-town bikes when you fit them with "slicks" (smooth-tread tires) and a rear cargo rack.

A good, basic mountain bike comes with strong cantilever brakes and an index-shifting 21-speed gearset from Shimano. (Shimano, a Japanese bicycle-component manufacturer, invented index shifting. Instead of fiddling with levers on the handlebars to shift and adjust the gears, you simply press a button to jump up or down a step. Properly adjusted, index shifting is foolproof.) Trek Y11

Pricier machines come with frames made of exotic materials (such as aluminum or carbon fiber), front and rear suspension systems, and hydraulic disk brakes.

Mountain bikes take a lot of abuse: the strong frames and wheel rims allow them to survive urban punishment, like potholes and curbs. The mountain-biking revolution in the marketplace has made them ubiquitous; decent new ones cost as little as $275, or as much as $4000 for a fully-suspended, aluminum-framed, disk-braked monster.

Drawbacks: a sturdy steel frame makes for a heavy bike, and the low gearing makes for a slow cruising speed. Their weight, low gearing, and low, wide bars make mountain bikes tiring to ride for long distances. Though lighter, the expensive models are still ill-suited for road riding.

Hybrids (often called "cross bikes")

I'm not sure if these are called "cross bikes" because they're a cross between a road bike and a mountain bike, or because they're popular for cross training regimens. Anyway, hybrids have slightly larger wheels and slightly higher gearing than mountain bikes (though still with 27 speeds), making for a faster cruising speed. Cross bikes tend to be lighter than mountain bikes. They are ideal for riding around town and for short- to medium-distance commuting. Hybrids have taken over that segment of the market was once satisfied with inexpensive drop-handled 10-speeds. Prices start in the $275 range.

Drawbacks: Hybrids are a good compromise, but their upright riding position is not very suitable for very long distances, and their slightly lighter frames make them more delicate than mountain bikes.

Road bikes ("10-speeds")

These are the drop-handled bikes. Though they are often called "10-speeds," this is a misnomer: modern road bikes almost always have 27. (Some even have 30.) These have large, spindly frames and large-diameter, skinny wheels, making them very light and very fast. They are the bikes best suited for long-distance road riding, but the only new road bikes you can buy these days are in the upper tier of the market: new ones start at about $550 and go up from there. (The cheaper 10-speeds that were so popular in the '70s and '80s have been replaced in the marketplace by hybrids.)

There are many sub-classes of road bike, including touring (with a slightly stronger frame, cantelever brakes, and wide wheel clearance for wider tires and fenders), cyclecross (off-road competetion frames, with higher bottom-brackets and more clearance for knobby tires), road-racing and time-trial frames.

Drawbacks: Their high price and aggressive, hunched-over riding position can be intimidating for novices.

Cruisers

Cruisers have made a comeback in the past couple of years. They are styled after the traditional Schwinns of the 1950s, with curving frame tubes, chrome fenders, whitewall tires, and high "bull horn" handlebars. Schwinn Phantom Traditional cruisers have one or three speeds, though the new breed of "faux" cruisers come with full, 21-speed gearsets. The market for cruisers has gotten quite hot lately, and many bike companies that weren't even around in the 1950s--such as Specialized, and Trek --are offering their own 1950s-style cruisers. They're cute and rugged, but not very suitable for long distance riding. Prices start in the $275 range.

Drawacks: Cruisers aren't very practical, and they have a definite faddish quality. They're very simple and trouble-free, but their one-speed drivetrain makes them difficult in anything but the most flat terrain for most novice riders.

City Bikes

Sometimes called "utility bikes," these are the bikes seen pretty much everywhere in the world except the United States--simple, utilitarian bikes used as everyday transportation for millions of people. The Raleigh Sports 3-speeds are an example.

These bikes are starting to return to the American marketplace, usually in the form of hybrid bikes with internal-geared hubs like the Shimano Nexus and SRAM S7 series.

Where to buy?

You should stay away from department stores. If you want a new bike, go to a specialty bike shop.

You should also consider a second-hand bike. Many cities have second-hand bike shops. If you're partial to a drop-handled 10-speed, a second-hand shop may be your best bet. (I found a great drop-handled touring bike at Pedal Revolution in San Francisco.)

If you're into scrounging and know a bit about bikes already, you may be able to find a good bike at a thrift store or garage sale, but it'll probably need a bit of work.

Fitting a bike

There are many methods for fitting a bicycle frame. The old standby method is this: Straddle the bike in front of the saddle. With your feet together and flat on the ground, the top tube (the tube running between the seat and the handlebars) should be about one or two inches below your naughty bits (depending, of course, on the dimensions of your naughty bits). You should be able to pick the bike up between your legs and clear about one or two inches before touching anything important.

Different types of bikes will fit differently. For example, many mountain bike riders prefer smaller frames because they are lighter and sturdier.

One of the best ways to fit a frame is to ride a couple of different bikes in different sizes, and pick the one that is most comfortable. When you are riding, the top tube height is less critical than the length of the frame: shorter frames will feel cramped, while longer frames will feel too spindly; neither situation is good.

You can also fine-tune the fit of your bike by adjusting the saddle height, angle and fore/aft position; and by adjusting or replacing the stem (the piece between the handlebars and the steering head of the frame).

Essential gear

Safety gear

If you buy nothing else, buy a helmet and a pair of cycling gloves. They may look dorky, and it may seem strange that a piece of styrofoam covering the top half of your cranium will do you any good at all, but trust me. Get a helmet. Newer ones by Bell, Gyro and Specialized fit quite well and are light and airy enough to be unobtrusive. If you wipe out and hit your head, replace the helmet: its structural integrity has been compromised by the accident. Never, ever buy or wear a second-hand helmet; you don't know where it's been. Trek gloves

Gloves are essential because when you fall, you'll tend to land on your hands first. Nobody likes scraped palms. There are a number of cycling gloves on the market, costing anywhere from $12 to $100. I prefer the $12 ones.

Riding gear and accessories

Other essentials include a drinking bottle and bottle cage, and a flashing light for nighttime visibility. Maybes include cycling shorts (or even cycling underwear) to avoid the dreaded Chafing of the Naughty Bits on long rides; and maybe a riding jersey.

Good accessories to have include a rack and saddlebags. (Saddlebags kick ass! One will hold a change of clothes and other odds and ends; two will hold a week's worth of groceries.) Blackburn AS-1 Air Stik

You should also consider tire repair paraphernalia, including a patch kit, tire irons, a spare inner tube and a portable pump. If you want to travel light, leave the saddlebags at home and put the tire stuff into a seat bag; the pump will strap onto your frame. Fixing a flat is easy, but only if you know how. Take a little time to learn how to patch or replace an inner tube.

Kryptonite Kryptolok Of course, you'll need a lock, too. Get a good U-type lock (like a Kryptonite). These are great for locking your bike to parking meters, NO PARKING signs, etc. And there's something wonderfully ironic about leaving your vehicle at a parking meter without having to pay a dime. It's tremendous.

Most U-type locks come with a mounting bracket for your bike, but I've found that these are sometimes problematic; they either don't secure the lock very well, or interfere with your knees when you're riding, or wobble around. I prefer to secure my lock to my cargo rack with a bungee cord.

Most bike wheels these days are secured with a quick-release mechanism (or a "QR"), meaning you don't need any tools to remove them. If you lock up your bike, you need to remember to lock the wheels, too, lest ye ride home on a unicycle. (My mountain bike has a QR only on the front wheel, so I can use one U-lock for the front wheel, parking meter, and frame. You might also need a cable to lock both wheels and the frame to something.)

One last thing: Don't use a cable instead of a U-lock. They don't work. Always use a U-lock, with a cable only as an extra added bonus icing-on-the-cake theft deterrent.

For more information

Check out Sheldon Brown's site. It'll answer any question you can think of.

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